CINNAMON ROLLS

You can't get any better than cinnamon rolls, even without the glazing. Originally a German, then a Swedish favorite, the recipe is dated from at least the Middle Ages. In the modern version, yeasted or buttery dough spread with a mixture of cinnamon, sugar & butter is rolled into a log and sliced thickly. Arranged in the baking pan with the filled side up, the cinnamon rolls eventually look like snails (that's why the Germans call them "Zimtschnecken"). But why and how did they become so popular? I think it was the cinnamon.

Perhaps the most widely used spice in the kitchen after pepper, cinnamon has been around for thousands of years. Herodotus believed that, although noone really knew where it originated from, the plant was naturally grown in Arabia, where Dionysus (Bacchus) had spent his early years; that large fowls brought the sticks of cinnamon to heights no man could access, in order to build their nests directly on the rocks by filling the gaps with mud; that people offered the birds meat so they would plunge to catch it, letting the cinnamon sticks fall off the nests: "Τὸ δὲ δὴ κινάμωμον ἔτι τούτων θωμαστότερον συλλέγουσι. ὅκου μὲν γὰρ γίνεται καὶ ἥτις μιν γῆ ἡ τρέφουσα ἐστί, οὐκ ἔχουσι εἰπεῖν, πλὴν ὅτι λόγῳ οἰκότι χρεώμενοι ἐν τοῖσιδε χωρίοισι φασὶ τινὲς αὐτὸ φύεσθαι ἐν τοῖσι ὁ Διόνυσος ἐτράφη· ὄρνιθας δὲ λέγουσι μεγάλας φορέειν ταῦτα τὰ κάρφεα τὰ ἡμεῖς ἀπὸ Φοινίκων μαθόντες κινάμωμον καλέομεν, φορέειν δὲ τὰς ὄρνιθας ἐς νεοσσιὰς προσπεπλασμένας ἐκ πηλοῦ πρὸς ἀποκρήμνοισι ὄρεσι, ἔνθα πρόσβασιν ἀνθρώπῳ οὐδεμίαν εἶναι. πρὸς ὦν δὴ ταῦτα τοὺς Ἀραβίους σοφίζεσθαι τάδε· βοῶν τε καὶ ὄνων τῶν ἀπογινομένων καὶ τῶν ἄλλων ὑποζυγίων τὰ μέλεα διαταμόντας ὡς μέγιστα κομίζειν ἐς ταῦτα τὰ χωρία, καί σφεα θέντας ἀγχοῦ τῶν νεοσσιέων ἀπαλλάσσεσθαι ἑκὰς αὐτέων· τὰς δὲ ὄρνιθας καταπετομένας τὰ μέλεα τῶν ὑποζυγίων ἀναφορέειν ἐπὶ τὰς νεοσσιάς, τὰς δὲ οὐ δυναμένας ἴσχειν καταῤῥήγνυσθαι ἐπὶ γῆν, τοὺς δὲ ἐπιόντας συλλέγειν. οὕτω μὲν τὸ κινάμωμον συλλεγόμενον ἐκ τούτων ἀπικνέεσθαι ἐς τὰς ἄλλας χώρας". (Ηροδότου Ιστορίαι, Θάλεια, 111

 

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A cinnamon bird - Western France manuscript, ca. 1450

 

The cinnamon imported by Greek and Roman markets via Egypt was actually from southeastern Asia. It was so valuable that princes gave it to other princes to strike alliances or offered it to the gods along with frankinscence, myrrh & cassia (a variety of cinnamon). The Greek name κινάμωμον was borrowed from the Phoenicians and transcribed into Latin. During the Middle Ages, cinnamon trade was in the hands of the Venetians. Then Portugal and Holland took over, controlling the distribution of all spices in the Far East. Towards the end of the 18th century, the Dutch East India Company also began to grow its own cinnamon trees.

In both western and eastern societies, cinnamon was highly valued for its medicinal properties: boosting the immune system, aiding digestion, protecting from stomach ulcers, regulating body temperature and so on. A myriad of recipes were developed around the globe using cinnamon in sweet and salted dishes as well as beverages, including potions for the sick. 

 

 


 
CINNAMON ROLLS
This recipe is made from scratch.
 
I n g r e d i e n t s
6 cups strong flour
7g dried yeast
a pinch of salt
1 1/2 cup milk
1/2 cup butter
1/2 cup sugar
3 eggs
for the filling
1/2 butter
1/2 sugar
1tbsp cinnamon
 
M e t h o d
Sift the flour with the yeast and salt in a bowl. Gently heat the milk with the butter and sugar. The ideal temperature is 37o-38oC in the winter, a degree or two lower in the summer. Lightly whisk the eggs and pour into the liquid ingredients, saving a little for brushing the dough. Reheat the mixture for a while to reach the ideal temperature. Mix with the solid ingredients, cover the bowl with a towel and leave aside for 15-30 minutes. The colder your kitchen is, the more you need to wait for the yeast to do its work. Knead by hand (or mixer) until the dough is firm, adding little or no flour in the process. Shape into a ball, cover and leave to rise until it's doubled in bulk. It usually takes 1-2 hours. Punch down, shape again, cover and leave to rise until almost doubled. In the mean time, combine the filling ingredients. Roll out the dough using a pin, into an oblong shape. Generously brush with the filling, leaving the edges intact. Roll tight and seal the edges. Then divide into chunks, using a sharp knife and place the rolls on a baking sheet, lined with parchment paper, with a filled side on top. Cover and leave to rise again for 30 minutes while you preheat the oven at 200oC. Brush the rolls with the leftover egg, thinned out with milk. Bake for 30 minutes or until golden. Leave to cool on a wire rack.
 
N o t e
Alternatively, melt the butter for the dough in a pan and wait until it's lukewarm. Pour into the rest of the ingredients just before kneading or, better yet, gradually knead into the dough. This is what most housewives do though I prefer heating the butter with the milk, sugar and eggs. 

 

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