KÄSEKUCHEN

Some people believe that Käsekuchen is not the same as cheesecake, which may be true if you compare the German version to popular recipes with ground biscuits, Philadelphia cheese, and strawberry jam. However, unsalted cheese has been paired with honey and/or sugar and filled into pastries since Antiquity. Every corner of the world that is blessed with cows, goats and sheep has its own variation of cheesecake. 

 

The Return of the Herd (Pieter Bruegel the Elder, 1565)

And yet, Käsekuchen is the queen of cheesecakes. For one, it reminds of the classical Greek & Roman baked desserts. It's made with Quark, i.e. cheese of excellent quality, and (optionally) sour cream although Polish variations use added butter. Some Käsekuchen are filled with raisins and dusted with icing sugar but, more often than not, German cheesecake is topped with red fruit jelly. (French chefs alternative spread theirs with orange marmalade.)

My Käsekuchen was actually inspired by Magdlena Dobromila Rettigová and her famous work, Domáci kuchařka (1826). These are her instructions about both German and Slavic versions of the lovely dessert:

"Tvaroh. Vezme se dobrý tvaroh, dá se na mísu a dobře se rozetře, pak se do něho vrazi  žloutků a celých vajec tolik, aby byl právě tak řídký, jak jej kuchařka potřebuje (ku př. na libru tvarohu mohou se počitat 3 žloutky a 3 celé vejce), potom se do něho dá trochu květu a osladí se dle libosti. Má li se tohoto tvarohu použit na německé koláče, tedy se nechá jen tak; na skládané koláče ale mohou se do něho dát dobře přebrané a přemyté malé hrozinky."

Quark [filling]. Take some good Quark, place in a bowl and crumble, then beat in as many yolks and whole eggs as the cook needs for a thin mixture (e.g. allowing 3 yolks and 3 whole eggs for a pound of Quark), then add some flour and sweeten as much as you like. If the filling is to be used in German cake, it may be left as it is; for layered cakes, however, washed raisins may be added.

"Dobrý tvarohový koláč. Nejdříve si připrav tvaroh se žloutkama, cukrem a několika hořkými mandlemi; potom dej na vál čtvrt libry mouky, rozžmol zlehka do ni čtvrt libry čerstvěho tuhého másla, rozkloktej v půl koflíku studené vody jeden žloutek a zadělej tim těsto, pak ho rozděl na dva stejné díly, z jednoho udělej velkou tenkou placku, dej ji na máslem pomazaný papír, potři ji tlustě tím připraveným tvarohem, potom udělej druhou placku, polož ji opatrně navrch, okolo všude prstama ji přimačkej a dej to do trouby pect. Když jest koláč ypečený, posyp ho hodně vanilovým cukrem."

A good cheesecake. First, prepare the Quark with the yolks, sugar and few bitter almonds; knead together on a board 1/4lb each of flour and fresh hard butter, adding one yolk dissolved in 1/2 cup of cold water to make a dough; divide in two halves, make the first into a large thin sheet, place on buttered paper, and spread with the prepared Quark filling; then make another sheet of dough, place carefully on top, press round the edge with your fingers and place in the oven to bake. When the cake is ready, dust with plenty of vanilla-flavored sugar.

 

KÄSEKUCHEN 

There is no shell in my version because I prefer Quark on its own.

 

I n g r e d i e n t s

500g Quark

150g sour cream 

3 yolks + 3 eggs

70g flour

150g powdered sugar

60ml Amaretto

 

M e t h o d

Combine the Quark with the yolks, eggs and powdered sugar. Beat thoroughly, adding the flour and liquor. Place the mixture in a tart pan and bake at 180oC until firm. Serve with berry kissel or homemade orange marmalade, if liked. 

 

V a r i a t i o n 

For the optional base: Knead 115g flour with 115g cubed butter, adding one yolk and 1/2 cup of water. Shape into a ball, wrap in cling film, and refrigerate for 30 minutes. Roll out the dough and place in a buttered tart pan. Fill with rice and bake for twenty minutes. Remove the weights, spread the Quark mixture on top and bake until golden.

 

N o t e

Without the shell, Käsekuchen filling might be increased by a third in order to serve 8-10 people.