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| Hamburg seen from the river Elbe (by Ellias Galli, ca. 1680) |
I have long wanted to share a post about Hamburg cake. The recipe seems to be completely unknown, except to readers of the late Vefa Alexiadou. No matter how I tried, it was impossible to find it elsewhere. No German cookbook, website, or blog mentions anything remotely similar to this lovely dessert, which is basically a syrup cake. Since the recipe from Greek Pastries and Desserts (1992) is perfectly reliable, I have been making the cake exactly as described in the book - minus the syrup. When I finally decided to write a post about it, I left nothing out and realized that either this cake, like most German cakes, is/was not meant to be syruped, or the recipe needs to be slightly adapted - but more of this, later.
About the cake's real origin: Hamburg cuisine doesn't vary significantly from that of other German regions or northern European countries. Travel and food guides mention porridge, buttery dough etc. yet no syrup cakes - which shrouds 'Hamburg cake' in mystery. It's not unlikely that a syruped dessert from the German-speaking world appeared in U.S. cookbooks during the 20th century. Viennese pastrymaking, for instance, definitely caught the attention of elegant ladies on that side of the Atlantic. Many of these, delicious, recipes were published by expatriate chefs, immigrants who missed their homeland or just wanted to make the recipes known. Vefa Alexiadou, the Greek cookbook author, had travelled to the U.S. in the eighties and was familiar with American food culture, including European recipes that were adapted for American kitchens. Perhaps she learned about Hamburg cake there - or not. No matter where the recipe actually came from - or whether it's truly from Hamburg or German at all, I have loved it for years. It's been a favorite in our household, even used for a birthday cake. So today's post is dedicated to this lovely cake - and Hamburg.
I am not sure everyone feels like chatting about the Hansa when the name of the city is mentioned but I take an interest in medieval and Renaissance history so the economic, political and military union of the German north couln't be missing from a post dedicated to 'Hamburg cake'. The Hanseatic League, as other unions further south in Germany, consisted of free imperial cities, i.e. cities that enjoyed special privileges - especially on the financial side - but still maintained a link with the Empire. Hamburg was granted this status in 1189 by Emperor Frederick I Barbarossa. With the advantage of tax-free passage down the Elbe, its trading position between the North and the Baltic seas was strengthened. In 1241, its alliance with the city of Lübeck resulted in the creation of the all-powerful Hanseatic League which survived until the last third of the 17th century. Its economy thrived and its people were affluent. Trading ports famously have access to imported luxury goods and so did Hamburg. Molasses, spices, chocolate were available to most households so if the cake featured today in the blog did exist at some point in history, it would be made with the very best of ingredients.
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