BEFANINI

I think few people know that in Italy Christmas gifts are (supposed to be) delivered not only from Santa Claus but also from a woman. Her name is La Befana and she is an ugly but good fairy who rides a broomstick from house to house, passing through chimneys - with a bag full of trinkets. She actually makes her rounds on the night of 5 January and one etymology of her name suggests that it's a paraphrase of the Greek word Επιφάνεια (=Epiphany). 

 

Rubens, Adoration of the Magi - 1617

 

The story of La Befana is dated from at least the Middle Ages though experts still cannot agree on the origins of this peculiar character. Is she the remnant of pagan beliefs that merged with Christian tradition? Legend says that La Befana was doing her chores when the Magi rested at her door, asked her to join their quest but she refused on the excuse that she was busy. Then when she heard that they were looking for baby Jesus, she filled a bag with goods, tied it at the end of her broomstick and went after the men - or began to look for Jesus herself. And though she didn't find him, she decided to help the children of the world. In real life, men go about on the day of Epiphany, carolling in exchange for victuals that are destined for the poor. 

La Befana vien di notte

Con le scarpe tutte rotte

Col vestito alla Roman

Viva, viva la Befana!

There are several versions of these carols in Italy and even songs written by famous poets about La Befana, who fills the children's socks with gifts. The singers are called Befanotti, which is also the name of the cookies Italian families traditionally bake on 6 January to honour La Befana. That - and Befanini. Each family has its own recipe, as there is no original version though people generally agree on the flavors, the shape and the decoration of these lovely butter cookies. Befanini have a distinct taste of Sassolino, the anise-flavored liqueur from Emilia-Romagna, and of the citrus fruits that grow abundant in the Mediterranean countries. They are shaped with cutters inspired by the story of La Befana: La Befana herself, the Angel, the star, a camel, the Magi. Coloured sugar is used for decoration, with or without a glazing underneath.

 

 

 

 

BEFANINI

My version of the Italian cookie is part of a Mediterranean diet: olive-oil, spelt flour, lemon zest & anise-flavored Greek brandy.

I n g r e d i e n t s

3 cups plain flour

1 cup spelt flour 

1tsp baking powder

a pinch of salt

1 cup sugar

1/2 cup butter

1/2 cup olive-oil 

2 eggs

1tbsp lemon zest 

3tbsp ouzo

 

M e t h o d

Line two baking sheets with parchment paper. Sift the flours, baking power and salt in a bowl. Place the sugar, butter, eggs, olive-oil and the flavors in another. Beat well, gradually adding the dry ingredients. Wrap the dough in cling film and refrigerate for an hour. Meanwhile set the oven to 180oC. Roll out very thin and shape the dough with cutters. Decorate with coloured sugar, if liked, and bake for 15-20 minutes -  rotating position of the baking sheets halfway through baking time. Place on a wire rack to cool and store in a biscuit tin.