SERRANO

Serrano is the name of a chocolate pastry but there is also Serrano chocolate cake and Serrano chocolate bars that are filled with chocolate mousse. The original recipe dates from the 1950s when a pastrymaker from Athens named a recipe of his own after the singer Rosita Serrano (1912-1997) (aka 'the Chilean nightingale') who visited Greece several times. The pastry became a great success in this Mediterranean corner although Rosita was not well liked in her native Chile because of her singing career in mid-war Berlin. Interestingly, part of Chile also belongs to a Mediterranean zone. Its cuisine, which varies from region to region, was influenced by Spanish conquerors and German immigrants but it also resonates the culinary traditions of indigenous peoples. There are cakes rolled with dulce de leche, Kuchen that is stuffed with red fruits, cake that is made from banana, and layered cakes filled with pastry cream (although none, I believe, is named 'Serrano').

 

 

Alfredo Valenzuela Puelma, Coquetería (unknown date)

There is no Serrano recipe in modern Greek cookbooks although you might find a version in old publications. A chocolate mousse cake featured in Greek Cookery (1950) by Nikos Tselementès looks like Serrano but is nearer Rigó Jancsi. Serrano is also difficult to find in Greek pastry-shops nowadays unless they are old-fashioned and, even then, it won't be so good as the pastries I remember from childhood: everything was light in the 70s - both in flavor and texture.

 

 

 

 

SERRANO 

People nowadays make Serrano by filling three layers of sponge cake with heavy cream that's mixed with cook's chocolate and whipped. To achieve the light texture of the original version, I would rather use cocoa powder.

I n g r e d i e n t s

for the cake

230g plain flour

3tbsp cocoa powder

1tsp vanilla sugar

8 eggs, separated

200g caster sugar

for the filling

400g heavy cream

100g confectioner's sugar

3tbsp cocoa powder

for the syrup

240ml water

120g caster sugar

3tbsp brandy

for decorating

50g grated chocolate

M e t h o d

1. Line a cake tin with buttered parchment paper (the bottom, not the sides). Adapt the diameter to your needs. For the cake in the picture, I used a 22cm tin but original Serrano cakes were larger and not so tall. A festive version might be 26cm in diameter, with thinner cake layers. Do not forget to adapt baking time. 2. To make the cake: Whisk the egg whites into stiff meringue. Beat the egg yolks with the sugars until very light, about 10 minutes. 3. Combine the mixtures with the flour, using a spoon. Pour into the cake tin and bake for up to an hour. If you choose the smaller tin, place the rack below the middle of the oven. Insert a knife in the centre of the cake to make sure it's done. 4. Divide into three horizontal layers and place each layer on a small tray. Meanwhile, prepare the syrup: Boil the water and sugar in a pan, add the brandy and stir. Pour over the cake layers, using a spoon. Leave to cool for several hours. 5. To make the filling: Combine the powdered sugar and cocoa in a bowl, sifting them beforehand if necessary. Whisk the cream, gradually adding the other ingredients until the mixture is light brown in colour. For best results, place the filling and cakes in the refrigerator. Otherwise, leave everything to cool for several hours, then go on to assemble. 6. Place a layer of cake on a serving dish, using a cake ring if necessary. Spread a little of the filling on top. Cover with another layer of cake and repeat with more filling. Place the third layer on top and cover with the remaining cream. Do not forget the sides. 7. Make a decorative pattern with a knife (diagonal lines or a swirl). Alternatively, pipe the last third of the filling on top of the final cake layer. Sprinkle with grated chocolate and refrigerate for 24 hours.

 

V a r i a t i o n

For the chocolate mousse cake by Nikos Tselementès, prepare the filling with 400ml heavy cream and 125g melted chocolate that you will refrigerate for several hours and then whisk. The base for old-fashioned cakes is typically made with 6 eggs (and less flour & sugar), resulting in a different ratio between cake and filling.