BISCOCHITOS

Although biscochitos (or bizcochitos) are generally associated with Christmas, I've labelled them as summer treats. Perhaps it's because they are from New Mexico with a long history that goes back to Spanish colonialism. Or perhaps it's because I believe that Spain, along with the lands it once held in the Americas, enjoy warm climates. Besides, the New Mexico state cookie is not only baked in December: weddings, anniversaries, birthdays, graduations all round the year are celebrated with biscochitos and morning coffee or dinner are often accompanied with the same. No original version of the recipe has survived nor is it certain that it exists. In fact, every household in Mexico today boasts of its own recipe. Most versions use lard for shortening, are flavored with anise, shaped into fleur-de-lis or stars, ovals, half-moons etc., rolled in sugar, baked, and then dusted with cinnamon. It's also possible to use wine, brandy, or rum for extra flavor.

 

 

Writ to recognize Puebla as City by Queen Isabella of Spain in 1532

Food historians claim that biscochitos were either gradually adapted by colonist families, based on Spanish and other European cuisines, or they were first baked in the mid-19th century by nobody-knows-whom. I prefer the second theory because it's more directly linked to history.

The people of Mexico declared themselves independent from Spain in 1821 but they also made war on the French, who invaded their country in 1862. A battle was fought near Puebla de los Angeles, resulting in Mexican victory. This city was founded in the early 1530s, after the Spanish bishop of Tlaxcala dreamt of a group of angels designating some fertile ground between Mexico City and Veracruz. Queen Isabella of Spain (wife to Charles V) recognized Puebla as City the next year and Spanish families moved over from Europe to remain there until 1827, when all peninsulares were expelled. In 1848 Puebla was taken by the U.S. army but during the French invasion of 1862, the Mexican forces held. Following the battle, the city was renamed Puebla de Zaragoza - after the Mexican general who defeated the enemy. (It was in this context that biscochitos were supposedly first made and, if true, I believe the fleur-de-lis shape makes perfect sense because it's generally associated with French heraldry.) That's how Cinco de Mayo, the anniversary of the Battle of Puebla, became the most important event in local history and not only.

 

 

 

 

BISCOCHITOS

There are two official versions of biscochitos nowadays - the southern version, which is made with lard, and the northern version, which is made with butter. Since lard is not readily available in the Mediterranean city where I live, I favor the butter version.

 

I n g r e d i e n t s

400g plain flour, sifted

2tsp anise, ground

1tsp baking powder

a pinch of salt

250g butter, softened

325g unrefined sugar

1 egg

1tsp cinnamon

 

M e t h o d

1. Sift the flour with the baking powder and salt, then mix in the anise. Beat the butter with 200g sugar for 5 minutes, add the egg and continue beating for another 3 minutes. 2. Combine the mixtures into a soft dough and refrigerate for 30 minutes. Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 180oC and line two baking sheets with parchment paper. Combine the remaining sugar with the cinnamon in a small bowl. 3. Take spoonfuls of the dough, shape into mini balls and roll into the cinnamon sugar mixture. Place onto the baking sheets, flattening each cookie with the bottom of a small glass, if liked, and bake separately for 15 minutes or until golden. 4. Cool on wire racks and store in a biscuit tin.

 

V a r i a t i o n

Roll out the dough thin, about 0.5cm. Shape with cookie cutters and bake for 10-12 minutes. Dunk each cookie in the bowl of cinnamon sugar. Cool on parchment paper.