FRANGIPANE

Today's story was inspired (again) by Pellegrino Artusi. For years I'd hoped to make frangipane, which I believed was something to do with currants because the Greek translation of this word is 'fragostafylo' -literally meaning 'Frankish grape'. 'Frankish' used to be equal to French and still is very near, etymologically. So redcurrants and blackcurrants that usually grow in northern climes, including that of France, were named after the Franks who originally came from southwestern Germany. I later discovered, however, that frangipane was almond-flavored custard mixed with crème pâtissière, was used as cake or tart filling and named after the Italian gentleman who either developed the recipe and handed it over to Louis XIII's chefs or launched a jasmine-based perfume that inspired French pastrymakers to name a custard (or custard-filled tart) after him. I don't know if the custard tastes of jasmine but Pellegrino Artusi featured a torta by the same name that contains neither almonds, jasmine nor any of the extras that go into the custard filling nowadays.

Before I go on with the recipe, I should chat a little about Frangipani - the person who unwittingly gave his name to a dessert. Marquis Muzio Frangipani belonged to an important family of Roman patricians. Even back in Antiquity, patricians were not always of noble stock and the Frangipani (also known as Frangipane, Freiapane, Fricapane, and Fresapane) claimed descent from Roman plebeians although their name was first recorded in 1014. The family was all-powerful not just in Central Italy (Lazio) where they owned extensive lands but also in Rome. At some point they influenced the election of the Pope, controlling the Lateran Palace from the Colosseum, which they held between the 12th and 13th centuries. Like most patrician families, they were involved in the Guelph-Ghibelline struggle -a medieval dispute also known as the Investiture Controversy, between the Holy Roman Emperor of the Germanic Nation and the Pope, about the right to invest bishops with power. The Frangipani supported the religious faction. They also held their own feuds with other influencial houses. Although the Roman branch of the Frangipani was extrinct by the middle of the 17th century, other branches continued in the north of Italy and in Dalmatia, where the medieval rulers of Krk island, who later held power in Croatia, Hungary and Romania, went by the name of Frankopani.

 

 

A fight between Guelphs and Ghibellines in 14th c. Bologna

 

Back to our culinary history: A recipe of frangipane exists in Pierre Lacam's Le nouveau pâtissier-glacier français et étranger (1878). It was not the mixture we know today as frangipane, with 2 parts almond-flavored custard and 1 part  crème pâtissière (although the proportions and ingredients vary). Lacam's version was a custard without almonds to be used as filling in tartlets and 'frangipane', which must have been a tart. In the same chapter, Lacam featured three 'almond creams' to be used as garnish (in this case, 'filling') in almond-based desserts. Here are the recipes:

"Crème d'Amandes. 500gr. d'amandes pilées avec 12 oeufs, 1 moule de rhum, puis 500gr. de beurre et 500gr. de sucre. Bien la travailler au mortrier. L'on garnit les gâteux d'amandes avec."

"Crème d'Amandes fines. 500gr. d'amandes fraîches, blanchies; les pilez bien fines à l'eau; puis y ajouter 500gr. de sucre, du lait et un moule de cognac. Garnir avec.

Crème d'Amandes Extra. 250gr. d'amandes et 250gr. de sucre, 60gr. de farine, 1/2 litre de lait, vanille. Quand elle est cuite, l'on y met la poudre d'amandes; il faut que la crème soit froide avant, l'on garnit avec.

Crème à tartelettes et frangipane. 250gr. de farine, 250gr. de sucre, 8 oeufs: travaillez le tout dans une casserole, puis 1/2 litre de lait. Cuire sur le feu. Lorsque c'est bien cuit et démêlé, l'on y ajoute 4 oeufs et eau d'oranger. On fonce les tartelettes, on les garnit et on fait une croix dessus, four moyen."

Finally, Pellegrino Artusi: frangipane was included in the newest editions of Science in the Kitchen and the Art of Living Well (first published in 1891). It was entirely made of potato flour. Here is the recipe:

"580. TORTA FRANGIPANE.

Un signore veneziano, dai tratti di vero gentiluomo, mi suggerische questa torta, che è di grato e delicato sapore.

Farina di patate, grammi 120. Zucchero a velo, grammi 120. Burro, grammi 80. Uova, n. 4. Cremor di tartaro, grammi 5. Bicarbonato di soda, grammi 3. Odore di scorza di limone grattata. Lavorare da prima i rossi d'uovo con lo zucchero, dopo uniteci la farina di patate e prosequite a dimenare con mestolo; versateci poi il butto sciolto e per ultimo le chiare montate e le polveri. Servitevi di una teglia picolla onde possa restar alta due dita; ungetela con burro e spolverizzatela di farina mista con lo zucchero. Potete cuocerla in casa nel forno da campagna." 

 

 

 

 

 

 

FRANGIPANE CUSTARD

This version combines two of Lacam's recipes, his Almond Cream no. 1 and his Custard for Tartlets and Frangipane. It's possible to make them separately, like most pastry chefs do with 'frangipane' custard today but I used all the ingredients in one go. Both recipes were quartered. Of Lacam's three 'almond creams', I picked up the first because the quantities match those of his 'custard for tartlets and frangipane' (based on the number of eggs). It also seems to be the closest equivalent to modern versions of the frangipane, which typically use rum. However, rum-flavored almond cream would probably not have mixed well with Lacam's crème pâtissière because of the orange blossom water. So what probably happened, whether in Lacam's frangipane tarts or in any similar kind of dessert is that a crème pâtissière was enriched with ground almonds, pretty much as in Lacam's Almond Cream no. 3. The bitter almond liqueur (Amaretto) that I used instead of the original recipe flavors, is perfect -at least that's what I believe- but you can still use rum or even orange blossom water.

I n g r e d i e n t s

for the almond cream:

3 eggs

125g caster sugar

125g butter at room temperature

125g almonds, finely ground

1tbsp Amaretto

for the milk custard:

3 eggs

65g plain flour

65g caster sugar

125ml whole milk

M e t h o d

- Version 1

To prepare the almond cream, beat the eggs with the sugar and butter. Pasteurize by heating in a double boiler until the temperature reaches at least 90oC. Add the liqueur. Finally, stir in the ground almonds. For the milk custard: Beat the eggs with the flour and sugar, gradually adding the milk. Cook gently, stirring from time to time until the mixture thickens. Whisk the custard into the almond cream.

- Version 2

Beat all the eggs (6) with all of the sugar (190g), flour and milk. Cook gently, stirring from time to time until the mixture thickens. Add the butter and stir. Finally, mix in the liqueur and ground almonds.

 

FRANGIPANE TORTE or TORTA

This is exactly Pellegrino Artusi's recipe, increased by 50%. I baked the cake in a small pan so the 'frangipane' would end up tall and be sliced horizontally because i wanted to fill it with custard. Because it's leavened with chemical rising agents (cream of tartar, baking soda), this cake has a wonderful texture but is different from pan di Spagna.

I n g r e d i e n t s

180g confectioner's sugar

180g potato flour (or corn flour)

6 eggs, separated

120g butter, melted

1 1/2tsp cream of tartar

3/4tsp baking soda

grated lemon peel

 

M e t h o d

1. Preheat the oven to 180oC. Brush with melted butter the bottom, not the sides, of a round baking pan (24cm or larger), line with parchment paper and brush again with melted butter. 2. Sift the potato flour (or cornflour), cream of tartar and baking soda together. Add the grated lemon peel. 3. Beat the egg yolks with the sugar until very light, gradually adding the butter. Whisk the egg whites into meringue. 4. Combine the flour and yolk mixtures using a spoon, adding the meringue little by little. 5. Pour the batter into the baking pan and bake in the middle of the oven for about 45 minutes. 6. Let rest for 5 minutes and upturn on a wire rack.

 

N o t e

Serve the frangipane custard in individual ramekins or use it to garnish a frangipane torte. Divide the cake into layers and fill with the cream. Glaze with a mixture of almond-flavored liqueur, water and confectioner's sugar and top with finely ground almonds. Or make a dose of almond cream and use on its own for topping. Remember to pasteurize the mixture beforehand.