Crostata marmellata is an Italian jam tart usually decorated with a lattice pattern.
The very first time 'crostata' was mentioned in a book was probably in 1465: Libro de arte coquinaria by Martino da Como features a recipe named 'crostata' after the special pastry used for wrapping the ingredients ('una crosta de pasta').
A hundred years later, 'crostata' was featured in the works of three Renaissance chefs named Bartolomeo (Platina, Scappi, Stefani), who also used the term for custards and savory pies with or without cream.
Crostata marmellata is the sweet variety. It's very simple to make: butter-rich dough is filled with jam, covered with the lattice, and oven-baked until you see the filling bubble.
The earliest recipes using fruit preserves appear in Scappi's Opera dell'arte del cucinare (1570). His 'crostate' are deliciously filled with quinces but also with pigeons, artichokes, turnips or marzapane (almond paste). Like Martino da Como, Scappi uses the words 'crostate' and 'torta' interchangeably although the latter is basically a generic term for single or multi-layered Italian desserts.
The recipe also exists in the neighboring Greek cuisine as well as in Latin America, where it was brought by immigrants. In all of these countries, its official name is pastaflora, which means 'shortcrust pastry' in Italian.
In his book Science in the kitchen and the art of eating well (1891), Pellegrino Artusi gives three different versions of pasta frolla, which is always made with eggs and can be used for pies, cakes etc. He advises to use your hands as little as possible when mixing the ingredients and even to add Marsala wine during the final stage in order to keep the dough tender. For the same reason, housewives are encouraged to let the pasta frola rest on a table overnight.
The fillings used in Italian 'crostata' may include ricotta. Artusi suggests either fruit preserves or pastry cream or a layered combination. Crostata marmellata (or pastaflora) is a beloved winter/morning treat. Red fruit preserves are the most obvious choices but quinces, apricots, peaches or citrus fruits also taste lovely.
CROSTATA MARMELLATA
This version is slightly adapted from Pellegrino Artusi's recipes no. 589/3 (for pasta frolla) and no. 616 (for crostate). It's an open jam tart scattered with ground almonds. To make the lattice pattern, use a smaller tart pan and decrease the filling ingredients by 1/4. In the original dough recipe, butter is mixed with lard.
I n g r e d i e n t s
for the crust:
270g all-purpose flour
115g powdered cane sugar
135g butter, room temperature
3 egg yolks
1tsp vanilla sugar
for the filling:
350g cherry preserve
1tbsp grappa (optional)
for the topping:
250g ground almonds
3tbsp cane sugar
M e t h o d
1. Preheat the oven at 190C. 2. Blend the crust ingredients using a knife, then your fingers but very lightly. Fit into a greased 26cm fluted tart pan, roll to 0.5cm thickness, prick with a fork, and trim the edges. 3. Gently heat the preserve with the brandy (if using) and pour into the crust. Top with almonds mixed with sugar. 4. Bake for about 30-35 minutes or until golden brown. In the winter, store at room temperature.
V a r i a t i o n
If you make a lattice pattern, brush the edges and the surface with lightly beaten egg yolk.
N o t e s
Crostata marmellata tastes better the next 2-3 days. You may also cut into squares, place in a biscuit tin, and serve at the coffee table.
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