SYLLABUB

Syllabub was extremely popular in England between the 16th and 19th centuries. It could be made in two ways, resulting in desserts of variable consincency: you filled a glass with sherry and topped either with single cream (or milk) that you would pour from high or with double cream that you would mix with beaten egg-white. The first recipe yielded a drink which had a lot in common with posset although syllabub was enjoyed cold. The second version was more like a dessert and is the one that finally prevailed. 

A re-creation of the syllabub appears in the 1996 TV adaptation of Emma. It's the cream white dessert served in tall glasses at the Westons' Christmas party. There were several places where the film-makers could look for authentic recipes, including The Art of Cookery Made Plain and Easy by Hannah Glasse that was published in 1747 & still a great favorite during Jane Austen's time.

Sir Kenelm Digby, a highly versatile man who lived in the 17th century, also dealt with the subject. Digby was a courtier, diplomat, privateer (for six months), natural philosopher, theologian, astrologer, inventor, and more. He wrote several books, including a best-selling work on the 'powder of sympathy' - a remedy applied on the weapon that caused a person's injury. In The Closet of the Eminently Learned Sir Kenelme Digbie Kt. opened that was published by his servant in 1669, there were detailed instructions for obtaining the 'powder of sympathy' by mixing vitriol and water. The book also contained recipes for ordinary use, including four versions of syllabub.




Sir Kenelm Digby by Anthony Van Dyck (1630s)


Front page of Sir Kenelm Digby's cookbook



Although syllabub is typically based on wine, Digby offered a version that was possible to make with fruit syrup and is the one I chose to adapt: "Take a reasonable quantity (as about half a Porrenger full) of the Syrup, that hath served in the making of dryed plums; and into a large Syllabub-pot or squirt, or let fall from high a sufficient quantity of Milk or Cream. This Syrup is very quick of the fruit, and very weak of Sugar; and therefore makes the Syllabub exceedingly well tasted. You may also use the Syrup used in the like manner in the drying of Cherries."






SYLLABUB
This version is made with double cream while the original recipe uses single cream (or milk). If you prefer a thinner syllabub, do not refrigerate at all.

I n g r e d i e n t s
for the base:
100g plums
50g caster sugar
water
for the topping:
200g double cream
30g powdered sugar

M e t h o d 
1. Wash, core, and quarter the plums. 2. Place in a saucepan with the caster sugar and enough water to cover the fruit. Boil for 5 minutes. 3. Remove the plums and simmer the juice until it thickens. Leave aside to cool. 4. Divide the syrup among four glasses: you can place the fruit at the bottom if liked and then cover with syrup. (There is no fruit in the original recipe.) 5. Whip the cream at medium speed, gradually adding the powdered sugar. Pour over the fruit (or syrup alone). Serve immediately, or refrigerate for a couple of hours.

V a r i a t i o n
Use single cream (or milk) that you will pour over the syrup from high. Omit the fruit altogether.

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