Citrons, lemons, oranges (sweet & bitter) were brought to England from the South. Although there is no reference of citrus fruit in Emma, cookbooks around 1800 were packed with recipes that used them: biscuits, cakes, tarts, custards, jellies, preserves, candy, and syllabubs. Orange marmalade based on the skin and pulp of Seville oranges has been a great favorite while other recipes, including bride cake, were filled with candied peel. Essential water of the oranges, however, remained a delight of the Levant. (English cooks insisted on rosewater.)
Today's post is dedicated to orange cream, adapted from a recipe by the notorious Hannah Glasse.
Today's post is dedicated to orange cream, adapted from a recipe by the notorious Hannah Glasse.
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Hannah Allgood Glasse (1708-1770) was born the daughter of a gentleman. She was raised by her paternal family until the age of 16 when she eloped with John Glasse, an officer. The couple lived on a small income. Hannah mothered 10 children (some of whom did not grow into adulthood) and even before the husband's death, she looked for ways to support the family. That's how she came to write three cookery books, of which the first -The Art of Cookery Made Plain & Easy- became a huge success. She later became a dressmaker to important customers but didn't manage her affairs so well: lived beyond her means and finally went bankrupt. She was compelled to sell the rights of her book to save herself from prison.
The Art of Cookery Made Plain & Easy was first published in 1747, followed by several editions in the next hundred years. The recipes were phrased in simple words because they were addressed to servants. The book was a collection of typically English dishes, including many versions of sweet and salted pies. There were also chapters for special occasions (religious feasts, for the diseased, captains of ships etc.) and even sections with advice on common household problems. The recipe featured in this post belongs to Chapter XVI. "Of Cheesecakes, Creams, Cakes, Whip-Syllabubs, &c."
Take a pint of juice of Seville oranges, and put to it the yolks of six eggs, the whites of but four, beat the eggs very well, and strain them and the juice together; add to it a pound of double refined sugar, beaten and sifted; set all those together on a soft fire, and put the peel of half an orange to it, keep it stirring all the while one way. When it is ready to boil, take out the orange-peel, and pour out the cream into glasses, or china dishes.
ORANGE CREAM
This is 1/3 of the original recipe. The mixture is cooked longer than Hannah Glasse directs, ending up with a very thick cream which is best served in ramekins. It's also good for filling into cakes, biscuits & tarts.
I n g r e d i e n t s
This is 1/3 of the original recipe. The mixture is cooked longer than Hannah Glasse directs, ending up with a very thick cream which is best served in ramekins. It's also good for filling into cakes, biscuits & tarts.
I n g r e d i e n t s
2 yolks
1 egg white
150g caster sugar
140ml orange juice
2tsp orange zest
M e t h o d
1. Beat the sugar with the yolks and zest, gradually adding the juice. 2. Beat the egg white stiff. Fold into the yolk mixture and pour into a saucepan. 3. Cook over very low heat, stirring from time to time with a spoon, until the mixture is almost curdled. 4. Pour into 6 ramekins.
N o t e
It took one hour for the liquids to evaporate but you can stop at boiling point, following Hannah Glasse's directions. Either way, the cream is very sweet. Pour into glasses and use spoons (or straws) to enjoy like a sorbet.
V a r i a t i o n s
To make orange curd, add butter. Use to fill tarts, biscuits, and rolls or keep refrigerated in a jar for up to a week. To make orange custard, stir 1-2tbsp of the cream into milk thickened with cornflour. To make orange jelly, add 6tbsp water (or a mixture of water + liquor). To make orange pudding, stir 2-3tbsp of the cream into the beaten milk & eggs that you will pour over the sliced bread. (There's no need to add sugar.) To make orange syllabub, beat 1-2tbsp of the cream into your mixture.
V a r i a t i o n s
To make orange curd, add butter. Use to fill tarts, biscuits, and rolls or keep refrigerated in a jar for up to a week. To make orange custard, stir 1-2tbsp of the cream into milk thickened with cornflour. To make orange jelly, add 6tbsp water (or a mixture of water + liquor). To make orange pudding, stir 2-3tbsp of the cream into the beaten milk & eggs that you will pour over the sliced bread. (There's no need to add sugar.) To make orange syllabub, beat 1-2tbsp of the cream into your mixture.
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