ENGLISH TRIFLE

Trifles can be served all year round but I find them very practical in summer when your oven needs a break. A subcategory of pudding, they are generally made with sponge cake or/and biscuits, custard, and jelly. However, a lot of other puddings might also deserve the name, including tiramisù. The first recipe for English trifle appeared in 1585. Two hundred years later, best-selling cookbooks by Elizabeth Raffald and Hannah Glasse featured versions of the same dessert that would be adopted by the next generations with very little change.

The recipe adapted for today's post is from Mrs Beeton's Book of Household Management (1861) also published as Mrs Beeton's Cookery Book, with illustrations. Although Isabella Mary Beeton was criticized for plagiarizing other authors, her works sold hundreds of copies. The material, which included tips on keeping house, was carefully organized and, in the culinary section, readers could find detailed information, accompanied by colour plates which explained how the dishes must be served. At the end of each recipe, there was a brief note about the cost of the ingredients, the portions, and the best season for making the dish.

Cheapside in London, where Isabella Mary Beeton grew up

"Puddings" (Colour plate from Mrs Beeton's Cookery Book)

Here is the original trifle recipe from Mrs Beeton's Cookery Book, followed by a slightly different version that I came up with:

TO MAKE A TRIFLE

1489. INGREDIENTS. —For the whip, 1 pint of cream, 3 oz. of pounded sugar, the whites of 2 eggs, a small glass of sherry or raisin wine. For the trifle, 1 pint of custard, made with 8 eggs to a pint of milk; 6 small sponge cakes, or 6 slices of sponge-cake; 12 macaroons, 2 dozen ratafias, 2 oz. of sweet almonds, the grated rind of 1 lemon, a layer of raspberry or strawberry jam, 1/2 pint of sherry or sweet wine, 6 tablespoonfuls of brandy.

[Illustration: TRIFLE.]

Mode. —The whip to lay over the top of the trifle should be made the day before it is required for the table, as the flavour is better, and it is much more solid than when prepared the same day. Put into a large bowl the pounded sugar, the whites of the eggs, which should be beaten to a stiff froth, a glass of sherry or sweet wine, and the cream. Whisk these ingredients well in a cool place, and take off the froth with a skimmer as fast as it rises, and put it on a sieve to drain; continue the whisking till there is sufficient of the whip, which must be put away in a cool place to drain. The next day, place the sponge-cakes, macaroons, and ratafias at the bottom of a trifle-dish; pour over them 1/2 pint of sherry or sweet wine, mixed with 6 tablespoonfuls of brandy, and, should this proportion of wine not be found quite sufficient, add a little more, as the cakes should be well soaked. Over the cakes put the grated lemon-rind, the sweet almonds, blanched and cut into strips, and a layer of raspberry or strawberry jam. Make a good custard by recipe No. 1423, using 8 instead of 5 eggs to the pint of milk, and let this cool a little; then pour it over the cakes, &c. The whip being made the day previously, and the trifle prepared, there remains nothing to do now but heat the whip lightly over the top: this should stand as high as possible, and it may be garnished with strips of bright currant jelly, crystallized sweetmeats, or flowers; the small coloured comfits are sometimes used for the purpose of garnishing a trifle, but they are now considered rather old-fashioned. (See coloured plate, V1.)

Average cost, with cream at 1s. per pint, 5s. 6d.

Sufficient for 1 trifle. Seasonable at any time.

ENGLISH TRIFLE

This version is different from the original recipe in three ways: 1) Egg whites are omitted from the 'whip' because using them raw is not considered safe today. 2) I added some dark chocolate, omitted the almonds (but you may keep them), and used Heering liqueur instead of brandy and sherry. 3) Mrs Beeton's recipe No. 1423 for custard is slightly adapted. (You're advised to homogenize the final mixture with a blender, which I didn't do for lack of time.) Finally, I prepared the jelly by mixing water, sugar, corn flour and Heering liqueur because I had no marmalade at home.

I n g r e d i e n t s

for the base

200g sponge cake

200g biscuits, crushed

100g dark chocolate, grated
100g redcurrant jelly

50g almonds, slivered (optional)

for the syrup

240ml water

45ml cherry-liqueur

60g sugar

for the custard

200g double cream

200ml whole milk

a vanilla pod (+ seeds)

100g sugar

5 eggs

for the 'whip'

400ml double cream

100g sugar, powdered

15ml cherry liqueur
25g dark chocolate, grated

M e t h o d

The base. Slice the cake and place in a large round glass pan. Add the crushed biscuits, the almonds (if using) and the jelly in strips. Top with grated chocolate. The syrup. Boil the water and sugar, add the liqueur and stir. Pour over the cake and leave to soak. The custard. Beat the eggs with the sugar. Place the milk, cream, and vanilla in a saucepan and heat very gently. Combine with the rest of the ingredients and pour back into the saucepan. Cook very gently, stirring in one direction until the custard thickens. Pour over the base and set aside to cool. The 'whip'. Whip the cream until soft peaks are formed, add the sugar and liqueur and pile on top of the custard. Decorate the trifle with chocolate shavings and refrigerate until it's time to serve.

N o t e

You can make 6 individual trifles in glass bowls.